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Buyers Guide – Vintage Standard 9
Also available to download as a .pdf file from here
Buying Guide -
This is one of a series of buyers guides on Standard cars
The intended audience is someone who is looking at a prospective purchase.
This guide does not cover looking for all the usual issues when buying any car such as oil pressure, lack of compression, oil in water, noises, rattles, do the electrics work etc, etc, since it assumes all those normal checks will also be done. The guide is intended to identify the good and bad points of the Vintage Nine. This is issue 1, so may be updated over time.
2. Commission Numbers
The Commission Number is found in the centre of the steering wheel
3. Background and Model History
The Standard Motor Company needed a more affordable car that would sell in the difficult trading conditions in the later 1920s. It had to maintain the dependable, solid and reliable character of the larger Standards of the time. All the current range had been developments of pre WW1 designs and this was the first all new design after the war. The Nine, which went from initial drawings into production in just six months. had a new design of side-
The first saloons were rather square in appearance, but from August 1928 the chassis was lowered by two inches and the corners of the body made more rounded. The next month a long wheelbase version of the chassis was launched, with an enlarged engine. The fabric body was extended towards the back, still as a four-
From September 1928 all factory saloons had the opening roof. Generally the Teignmouth replaced the short-
The vintage Nine continued to be built into 1930. Later in that year it developed into the Big Nine, which saw the traditional shouldered radiator replaced by a new shape.
4. Chassis Description :
All vintage Nines have a separate chassis incorporating two main chassis rails running fore and aft, with four transverse cross sections. The rear axle is underslung and has a worm drive. The front axle is a conventional solid item. Each axle is suspended by two multileaf semi-
All models are fitted with a Standard designed and built four cylinder side valve engine with cast iron block and removable iron cylinder head. It is mounted rigidly on the chassis, so some vibration is inevitable. The short wheelbase models have an 1131cc unit, the long wheelbase a 1287cc version. The car is fed by a side-
Several makes were used. Timing adjustment is achieved by altering the position of the coupling to the dynamo.
7. Clutch and Gearbox.
A friction clutch drives a three-
There is a conventional steering box.
9. Ignition and Electrics
Cars have 12 volt electrics, with a battery under the driver's seat, with a negative earth. There is an electric starter, which is mounted on the right side of the engine. The starter button works the motor directly. There are separate sidelights and headlights at front, with no provision for dipping. A single rear light was the original fitment, but many cars have had a second light fitted. There are no stop lights or trafficators.
10. Brakes, Wheels and Tyres
All cars have four-
Careful setting up and adjustment of the brakes is essential to safe and efficient working. The drop levers from the front wheels should point slightly forward in the off position, so that maximum force can be applied by the cables, as they operate at 90 degrees to the levers when the brake shoes start to bite. Cars have artillery wheels with four or five studs and brass wheel nuts that should not be overtightened. The 19" tyres are available but are pricey.
11. Body Construction
The body has an ash frame with fabric or steel covering. There are separate, steel, bolted on front and rear wings.
The cars are over-
There are no particular faults with the transmission. The gearbox should give out a whine in first and second but this should not be raucous. The rear axle should be silent. It is equipped with phosphor-
These cars were very well appointed internally, but most will have had the trim replaced. It is not cheap to retrim one of these cars, and some of the items are difficult to find if you insist on exact replication of the originals.
14. Other potential weak points
The fabric bodied cars were not as robust as steel-
Buyer beware, though! It is not easy rebuild the framework -
There are no particular rust spots on the fabric bodied cars.
These do not dip and the provision of a dipping mechanism would not be simple. The charging rate should cope with continuous use of headlights but it has little margin. To avoid dazzling other drivers the lights should be set in a 'dipped' position. Although not as bright as modern cars, the headlights are perfectly adequate.
16. Tail lights
Original fitment was only a single tail light, which also lights the number plate. It is possible to fit a second tail light with an extension to the wiring system.
17. Stop lights
No stop lights were fitted to these cars. Stop light switches, actuated by the movement of the brake pedal, can be fitted easily to the chassis, and suitable stop lights fitted. There is no ignition circuit, as the magneto provides the spark, so it will be necessary to wire the stop lights so that they are extinguished when the car is parked with the parking brake applied, as the latter works on the same cross shaft as the brake pedal.
All later saloons have a sunroof, and these should be checked for leaks. Staining on the headlining is an obvious clue. Make sure that the drain tubes are not blocked and that the rubber tubes under the wings are not perished or missing.
19. Further Information
The Standard Motor Club has a number of ' Fellow Owners' and a Comprehensive Spares Scheme for its members. For more information go to www.standardmotorclub.org
Please note that this buyers guide only highlights certain facts and is not exhaustive. If you intend to buy a Standard car, whether as a running vehicle or a restoration project, always ensure that it is inspected by a qualified person before driving it on the road.
Issue 2 -